I’ve been learning about vintage ukuleles made by the C.F. Martin Company for years, ever since I heard Brian Hefferan and Dave Passant playing their vintage Martins at various events. The sound of these instruments is distinctively different than any other. So I’ve been keeping my eyes open for a deal, checking out online auctions, For Sale listings and yard sales for several years. And educating myself on identifying the different styles and how to determine the time frame during which it was made. My primary source is the definitive reference, The Martin Ukulele: The Little Instrument That Helped Create a Guitar Giant by John King and Tom Walsh. The archives of the C.F. Martin Company were used by the authors to create this volume. This book has the history of the instrument within the Martin Company as well as pages of information about the differences between the Styles and the years certain changes were made.
When you see a listing, don’t trust the seller to know the difference between the Styles. Large vintage retailers like Elderly Instruments will have the expertise and experience to properly identify them, but many smaller shops don’t have that knowledge. I have seen many listings on eBay and Reverb where the seller has mis-identified the instrument they have for sale, usually it is an error determining between the Style 0 and the Style 1. Considering that the vast majority of the Martins were one of these two Styles, differentiating is important. One dealer even told me that Martin had told them it was a Style 1 when it clearly wasn’t. In some cases this may work in favor of the buyer, but most of the time it doesn’t. And just because they say it is worth several thousand dollars doesn’t mean that is an appropriate value. Knowing the difference can allow you to find a good deal at a reasonable price.
Determining the Style
It is relatively simple to determine the Style. Martin has had five Styles, or quality levels, of instruments that they produced. They began with just four, Style 1, Style 2, Style 3 and Style 5. There is no information about what happened to the Style 4. The market indicated the need for a lower end model, so they created the Style 0. There are two primary items to look at to determine the Style, the 7th fret marker and the bindings.
The fret marker at the 7th fret for the Style 0 is a single, small dot. For the Style 1 and 2 it is two small dots. On the Style 3 it will be either two diamonds or a ‘bowtie’ with a inlaid line down the middle of the fret board. On the Style 5 it will be a stylized plus sign. These basic parameters have not changed in the 100 years they have been in production. Note that prior to 1919, Style 1, 2, and 3 did not have fret markers at all, but the Style 3 still had the double lines down the middle.
The bindings are also distinctive. The Style 0 has no binding at all. The Style 1 had a rosewood binding on the front of the instrument, starting in 1926 it would also have binding on the back. On a vintage instrument, the binding can be difficult to see, the single thin white stripe hidden beneath an accumulation of dirt and age and the rose wood blending with the mahogany. In 1926 they changed from rosewood to the plastic tortoise shell. The binding on the Style 2 was an unmistakable white plastic celluloid with one black line in the middle. Binding for the Style 3 was a white plastic celluloid with a total of 7 alternating white and black lines. The Style 5 was similar to the Style 3, but had 9 bands with a mother-of-pearl inlay in one of the bands on the top.
Style 0 | Style 1 | Style 2 | Style 3 | Style 5 | |
7th Fret | 1 small dot | 2 small dots | 2 small dots | 2 diamonds or bowtie with line down middle |
Stylized Plus Sign |
Binding | No Binding | Rosewood on Front Back after 1926 Tortoise Shell after 1935 |
Front and Back White Celluloid with three white and black bands |
Front and Back White Celluloid with seven white and black bands |
Front and Back White Celluloid with nine white and black bands one white band is mother of pearl. |
Determining the Value
The value of the instrument is going to be dependent on the condition, the age, the type of wood and the size.
Condition is always a major factor when it comes to vintage instruments. There are the obvious cracks, sometimes repaired, and finish wear, as well as being complete with all the tuners, fret bars and bridge. Dings, scuffs, scratches are common and are often cosmetic flaws that don’t have too much of an affect on sound, but just look bad. Original tuners are a factor, particularly on the earlier models. A straight neck without any bowing is something to look for.
Age can be tricky to determine. The Martin records indicate when certain changes were made in the manufacture. These usually allow the time frame to be narrowed down to about a five year window. If your Style 0 or 1 comes with peg tuners, it was made before 1927. But just because it has tuners it doesn’t mean that is after 1927, as some retailers and special orders had geared tuners installed before that. Decals can be added or removed, but impressed stamps are much more difficult. Your best bet to narrowing down the time frame is to consult with an expert or reference the Martin history mentioned above. You can see the factors I used to determine my Martin’s age in my blog post here.
The primary wood for the lower three models of the instruments was mahogany. Martin did make Style 1,2 and 3 instruments in koa wood. The Style 5 were made primarily in koa, but a few of them they were available in mahogany. The koa wood instruments in the lower styles are much less common than the mahogany models and the opposite for the higher two styles.
All of the models were available in both a soprano and a concert size. The tenor was available in all styles except the Style 0. You can see from the production tables that finding a koa instrument is much more difficult than finding a mahogany one. And there were only 764 Style 5 instruments ever made.
Production numbers through 1994
Style 0 | Style 1 | Style 2 | Style 3 |
Style 5 | |
Soprano Mahogany |
87,791 | 36,668 | 16,715 | 8,065 | 24 |
Soprano Koa |
0 | 5,712 | 2,903 | 2,146 | 727 |
Concert Mahogany |
53 | 8,959 | 2 | 15 | 0 |
Concert Koa |
0 | 23 | 13 | 33 | 4 |
Tenor Mahogany |
0 | 15,986 | 1 | 9 | 0 |
Tenor Koa |
0 | 8 | 5 | 0 | 9 |
I wish you good luck in your quest to add a vintage Martin to your collection. The sound is unique and there is a sense of pride in owning an older instrument. If you wish to consult, please feel free to drop me a line at TheUkuleleDude@gmail.com.
I have a Martin Ukelele, probably style one
Features : 2 dots on 7th fret
C F Martin co lnc on back of arm & visible through the hole.
2 white circles around the hole
2 gut strings still in place.
Defects : One tuner key replaced
Split in surface of the head – minor
History: Probably been in family since early 1900’s
Type: Suprano
Likely late 20’s Martin. If you share pictures to my email, I can provide a much better identification.
I have changed to geared pegs on my 1940 tenor was this a big mistake? Tortoise shell binding and 14 frets.
As a collector piece, it will reduce its value. But if you like it and play it, that is certainly better than it sitting in a closet!
I have a tenor ukulele that has rosewood front and back. That says Type 1, 1935 or later. However, that 7th fret is single and that says type 0, but tenors were not made in that type. I have 1 in the 5th, 7th, 10th and 15th, and 2 in the 12th fret. Does that tell you anything?
There are pictures of Tenor style Martins with only a single marker at 7. Another thing to check is how many frets from nut to body? 12 or 14?
Hello, would you help me identify my Martin?
I could email you some photos.
Glad to take a look! Email TheUkuleleDude@gmail.com
My uke says CF Martin& Co. Also stamped on the inside of the back.
White dot centered at fret 5,7 and 10.
Doesn’t seem to match your identification guides, so, I think it is a knock off.
I have pictures but don’t see how to attach them.
Thanks
Send the photos to my email and I’ll take a look at them.
From a single dot at the 7, I’d say it is a Style 0.
I recently picked up a really nicely preserved style 2m soprano, complete with its original (vgc) Geib case, (now in a nice new Gator case btw), for a bargain price on US Ebay. The superb book, which I also bought, dates it to between 1934 and 1937. As it is my first all-solid uke, I am worried about how it will fare in my centrally-heated house over the winter. What precautions do I need to take. Thanks in advance for any advice. Mike
It wouldn’t hurt to have a humidifier! I have a video on making your own, or you can purchase one through most music shops.
I have a Type 1 Tenor and I’m led to believe it was late 1930s early 1940s (that’s how it was advertised when I bought it about 10 years ago). Condition is VG, no cracks, slight crazing, some tiny nicks and scratches. 18 frets, 2 dots 7th fret, pegs, tortoise shell binding. I’d like to send pictures if I could. Centre brace inside is stamped/embossed C F MARTIN & CO, NAZARETH PA (in all caps on the embossing). Headstock decal. Any idea of ball park value? Much appreciated.
I don’t try to appraise instruments without an opportunity to hold and play them. I would recommend checking the pricing on Elderly.com, eBay or other sites. I’ve found the Reverb listings by dealers are rather iffy and believe most of their prices are higher than I believe they are worth.
I am planning to buy ukulele. Where should i get the best one?
Pretty much anywhere that sells ukuleles is likely to have a variety of instruments. Try them out and see which one you like the best and is in your price range.
Friend gave me a used Martin ukulele.
– appears to be mahogany with rosewood fret board
– dot on frets 5, 7, 10
– no serial#
– stamped on head-stock and inside: C F Martin & Co, Nazareth PA
– dark wooden pegs facing down, not on side
– mahogany bridge with black saddle
– black nut
– no binding
– 2 inlay rings around sound hole
So a Style 0 from the early 1920’s. Very cool!
In 1945 Martin went from small to slightly larger fret markers. Do you have the exact measurement of the small vs larger fret marker? I just acquired a vintage concert ukulele and believe this would help me date it. Mine seems to have small markers but I have nothing to compare it to.
Thanks!
Sorry, but after checking all my references, none of them specify the sizes, only that they made them larger in 1945. If you can send some pictures of the tuners and other key items, I may be able to help narrow things down.
I have a style 2 in koa. 3 piece binding, no decal on headstock, stamped on back of head and in sound hole. No cracks or separations, original case. Widow of original owner said it was purchased new in 1920.
Nice! Sounds like you got a good deal!
I have a Martin and co. Uke passed down from my grandma it has small dot on frets 5 7 10 Martin stamp on headstock and sound hole says Nazareth and made in the USA underneath any idea as to what yr I’m guessing 50 or 60s
Style 0 if there is only one dot at 7. After 1960 as the stamp includes Made in USA.
Hi there, I was hoping you might be able to tell me a bit about my ukulele. This was given to me by a contractor several years ago who worked on my house. I thought it was a baritone but now I’m not so sure, as I had a few people tell me the frets are a style used in the 1920s and the Baritone was not introduced until 1960. The top of the head stock is straight with grover tuners on the backside with the Martin name embossed on the back. There is a serial number inside the instrument where the neck joins the body: 30834.
You’ll have to send some photos if you want me to compare and identify. Use TheUkuleleDude@gmail.com to send photos. Bridge, front and back of the headstock, inside stamp, binding and fretboard.
Hi. I found a ukulele in grandparents attic. I believe it’s a soprano 0, but unsure. It has single white dot on 5th, 7th and 10th. Has a double circle around hole, stamped Martin and co. est 1833 on head. Very good condition with original case. 4 tuners on back white covers. No serial #, has CF.Martin and co. Nazareth PA made in u.s.a on back inside. Looks like a shellac finish. Is it worth anything?
With the Made in USA on the inside stamp, we know it was made in 1960 or more recently. I concur it is probably a Style 0 from your description. It certainly has some value, you can check some of the auction sites or used instrument stores and see what they are asking for one like this.
I have what I believe is a pre-1926 cf martin & company ukulele made in nazareth pa. It has a bow-tie on the seventh fret and line down the middle, [t has double diamonds on the fifth and ninth fret, I am pretty sure this has been in our family since new and cf martin tried to purchase it from my mother in the 60’s for their museum I also have the original case and looks to be in perfect condition, how do I tell what kind of wood it is made from, thanks, John
It is going to be mahogany or koa. The koa tends to be a bit lighter. Most of the pictures you see on my posts are mahogany. Your best bet is to visit some of the auction sites and check out the pictures to see the difference. With a bow tie, you are probably talking a Style 3.
I was recently given a martin ukulele by a friend I believe it to be a after 1935 style 1 it has dots on the 5th,double on the 7th and on the10th it is 12 frets from nut to body.It has brass tuners that go straight out the back with black finger knobs, black nut with bone saddle (white) beautiful mahogany top, back and sides. Tortoise shell binding on top and back, two white rings around sound hole with what looks to be a inner white binding on the top next to the tortoise shell binding and the bridge looks to be rosewood as is the fret board and solid mahogany neck Martin logo on head stock and stamp inside on back bracing …..I would like to know as close as possible the year of manufacture and what it’s monatery value is, thanks !
Do get it any closer than you have I would need to see pictures. I won’t give money values unless I can actually play it.
Hi
I’m trying to identify a Martin I got from a car boot sale
I’ve attached pictures which I see you prefer when assessing instruments
apart from a couple of light scratches by the bridge and back it’s like new with a clear tone that’s surprising for such a small instrument
the tuning pegs work amazingly well staying in tune and it has a case and a green baize plectrum that works!!
Can you advise how to send pictures to you Great site
Hello, I came across your information and wondered if you could possibly assist me to determine if the martin listed in this reverb link for sale is actually a 1920s martin style 1. It seems to be a 1930s style 0? I truly appreciate your help. Thank you so much
https://reverb.com/item/17329946-1920-s-martin-stlye-1-soprano-uke-w-original-soft-cloth-case
I came across your information and wondered if you could possibly assist me to determine if the martin listed in this reverb link for sale is actually a 1920s martin style 1. It seems to be a 1930s style 0? I truly appreciate your help. Thank you so much https://reverb.com/item/17329946-1920-s-martin-stlye-1-soprano-uke-w-original-soft-cloth-case
Lara
I have an easily identifiable (I believe) Type 1 Tenor with double dots at the 7th fret, 12 frets to the body, fretboard goes to the sound hole, tortoise shell plastic binding, geared tuners, Type 1 binding (and of course almost all Tenors are Type 1). But it has a stamp on the inside that mystifies me. It appears to be “1 MONTE”, photo will be sent by separate email. If possible could you tell me the range of years of manufacture of this uke and what the stamp indicates? Thanks for any information!
Aloha Ukulele Dude-
My Martin Tenor has peg tuners and plastic tortoise shell binding. Is it safe to assume that according to your article above that would make it exactly 1926?
No, as it is possible that it is from the early 40’s during World War II when they went back to peg tuners.
My wife purchased a box lot at an action. In it was a uke with no markings but it is stamped on the back of the headstock “MARTIN”. Doing some research witch lead me to your site we determined that it is a style 0 from the twenties. Do you know if Martin ever simply had stamped their instruments particularly their cheaper models?
In the early years that is all the did, the stamp on the back of the headstock. They didn’t put decals on until the mid- to late 30’s.
Thank you
I live in Japan.
And I have Style 2 since the 1940s.
The decal is peeling off.
Would you please tell me if there is a store where you can buy it?
I haven’t seen any, but you could try contacting the C.F. Martin Company directly, they may be able to help.
,
Hello Ukulele Dude! I have a Martin uke that belongs to a friend. I was hoping you could help identify it and perhaps offer your opinion on value. I believe it to be a 1920’s style 0 in mahogany. It’s in excellent condition but lacks tuners. Thanks
Send photo to TheUkuleleDude@gmail.com and I’ll do my best.
Is there anyway to determine whether I have the 1926 or the early 40’s version?
There are indications that can help, including the types of tuners, the decals and the materials. As always, pictures to TheUkuleleDude@gmail.com and I’ll see if it can be narrowed down.
i have an antique martin ukelele i inherited ,it has a single dot on fret 5,2on fret 7 and 1 on fret 9 ,it is in very good condition
I have identified my Martin Style 2 as late 1950’s, the fret markers (white dots) are missing from frets 5 and 15 does anyone know what they are made of and where I could buy replacements?? Thanks for any help…help…help
Hey Ukulele Dude. I just fished out my dad’s old uke. Following your guidelines it appears to be a Soprano Style 0 with peg tuners. It’s missing a string but that’s easy. What is the best way to clean and fix scratches so as to maximize its value? thanks
phill
Damp cloth to start with, to remove any excess dirt. Clean and oil the fret board with a good fret board oil. I’ve used walnut oil on some scratches and it seems to help.
I inherited a soprano Style 0 in ’72, and I’ve kept it in very good condition. It has the original wood tuning pegs, and only tiny single dots on 5, 7, and 10. Unfortunately, I no longer have the original case.
Cool! Martin didn’t make cases, so they were made by other parties. Probably from the 1920’s.